Into Africa

It’s always been David’s dream to go on safari in Africa.  As this was his ultimate vacation, he planned everything, and did a fantastic job!  He chose to do a Northern Circuit tour of Tanzania just after the rainy season in early June to see the wildebeest migration across the Serengeti. 

We’ve broken up the blog by each region of Tanzania we visited – Arusha, Lake Manyara, Serengeti, and Ngorongoro.  And because we have so many pictures and videos, we’ve posted all of the photos on Facebook and the videos are here on the blog. 

Arusha

We didn’t spend much time in Arusha, but Kilimanjaro airport is nearby so we did spend our first night at the Serena Mountain Lodge.  The tour company we used partners with Serena lodges, and they were great!  We felt like we were in “Out of Africa” because during the day we’d get absolutely filthy bouncing around in the safari jeep through the dirt.  Then at night, we’d come back to the lodge to get cleaned up, have pre-dinner drinks with our group, a four-course dinner, and after-dinner drinks before heading to bed and repeating the process again the next day. 

When we got to our lodge in Arusha, we met the six other couples in our group.  Our car consisted of a group of friends from Jersey (not the state – the Channel Island) and David and me.  The Jersey couples, Baz & Mary and Mo & Hillary, have been on four other safaris together but at the end of this one, said Tanzania was the best.  We set the bar very high!

The other vehicles had a honeymooning couple, Ben & Sunny, and a few others from the London area.  Everyone was so nice, and this made the week even more fun!  Plus our driver, Dynamite, was awesome!  His real name is Baruti but he asked us to call him Dynamite (I think it’s so cute how sometimes guides give Westerners easy-to-remember English names).  He asked us to trust him and said if we worked together, we would be really successful in seeing lots of animals!  And he was right, trust your driver! 

Lake Manyara

When we headed to Lake Manyara, famous for its tree-climbing lions, we thought the 2-hour drive would just be along the highway between cities, but we actually saw our first wildlife off the side of the road – giraffes, zebras, storks, and ostriches.  There were also Masai everywhere!  Dynamite told us that their numbers have exploded in the past few years, from just 5,000 to 60,000 people. 

The shepherds we saw on the side of the road were so young.  We later learned the Masai go to the village school until the age of 7, and then either move to the local city school or go to work.  So most of the younger kids we saw must’ve just been around the age of 7 or 8.  That’s a dangerous job for a little kid – wandering the wild, fending off lions and other predators to protect your herd. 

We also saw a lot of boys dressed completely in black with the top half of their faces painted white.  Dynamite explained that before a boy can become a man, they are sent to the wild for three months.  If they survive and come home with a kill, they are officially a man.  During this period, they don black and paint their faces white to distinguish themselves between the boys and men.

Once we got to the Serena Lake Manyara lodge, we checked in and had lunch.  During lunch, we were surprised by a group of baboons that were walking around the grounds.  Baboons are the ugliest creatures (except for the babies that hang onto their mama's backs).  David was taking a picture of me at one point, and two monkeys started mating.  No shame!

Down in the Rift Valley near the lake, we saw sooo many monkeys.  They dominated the game drive!  We were also happy to see the hippo pool full of hippos, even though Dynamite warned us not to get our hopes up.  So we got lucky!  And our luck didn't run out there.

Shortly after the hippos, we saw our first elephant.  We foolishly thought it might be the only elephant we'd see that day, so we stopped and stared for a long time.  And then after he walked away and disappeared in the brush, we moved on… to another elephant just down the road.  And after him, we saw a whole herd hanging out with some zebras.  As we continued through the woods, we saw more families and even a tiny, playful baby.

What a remarkable first day!  I could’ve gone home then and I would’ve been satisfied.  Little did I know…

Serengeti

On Day 3, we drove from Lake Manyara to the Serengeti.  Once inside the park, we had lunch at a picnic spot and took a short hike to a scenic overlook.  There was a giraffe hanging out next to the trail, and we have a hilarious picture of him watching us.  Like I said in the caption, sometimes I got the feeling the animals were just as fascinated with us as we were with them.  This was true especially with the giraffes, and later in Ngorongoro, the water buffalo. 

We started our 5-hour game drive across the Serengeti and the first thing we saw were lions hanging out in the shade of a ranger shed.  Like with the elephants the day before, the first lion spotting was so exciting so we took a ton of pics!  If only we knew how many cats we’d see that afternoon and on the remainder of the trip.

We came upon a cluster of large trees and in each one there was a small pride of lions.  It was absolutely amazing!  Just seeing these beautiful creatures in the wild is so special and we are so lucky to have had the opportunity to witness this.  We hope these opportunities will still be available for our children and grandchildren.

So we didn’t see any tree-climbing lions in Lake Manyara, but we saw dozens in the Serengeti.  They should change the tag line of Lake Manyara to say something about elephants or baboons instead.

Near one of the lion-filled trees, we spotted a vehicle stopped ahead.  Each time we saw someone stopped, it was a thrill!  We would pull out the binoculars and try to figure out what everyone was looking at, and then Dynamite would rush over to the site before the show moved on.

It turns out these cars were parked in front of a tree with a mother and baby leopard sleeping in the branches.  This was awe-inspiring.  Seeing a leopard is so rare, but to see a baby and her mother in a tree is almost unheard of.  Everything we’d read about leopards said they are shy creatures who liked to hide in wooded areas, not on the plains of the Serengeti.  Again, we were so lucky!  

And David got his fill of the wildebeest migration during the Serengeti game drives!  Every year, millions of wildebeest and hundreds of thousands of zebra travel northwest into Kenya in search of food and water.  It’s one of the largest remaining migrations in the world, and is astonishing to behold!  From as far as the eye could see, there were wildebeest and zebra.   

David cracked us up by mastering the wildebeest call.  By the end of the trip, he was making the call to the lions to try to get their attention.  

Another great part of the day was finding a herd of elephants cooling off at a watering hole.  We must’ve sat there for at least 30 minutes admiring them.  Dynamite told us he loved our group, because we appreciated the animals and didn’t just want to take a pic and move on.  We stayed put for up to 45 minutes at some points to catch the action.

At the end of the drive, we made our way to the Serena Serengeti Lodge on the reservation.  During our check-in briefing, the receptionist explained that there are no fences around the property and the animals are free to come and go, and often use the pool for drinking water.  Therefore, we were not allowed to walk around alone at night, but had to call a guard to escort us.  And that night after dinner, we did see an owl next to the pool, dik-diks running around, and even a serval cat.

On our second day in the Serengeti, we visited the hippo pools and finally spotted some crocs!  We also saw some hyrax at the hotel restaurant while we were having breakfast, and then a huge group of them at the visitor’s center.

Ngorongoro Crater 

As we were driving from the Serengeti to the Ngorongoro Crater 

the next day, we saw the biggest zebra herd we’ve ever seen 

in real life (obviously) or on TV. 

We were also surprised when we came across a lioness just walking down the road.  She started to hunt some nearby wildebeest, which were confused and had lost their group.  But she must not have been that hungry, because she quickly gave up and wandered back to her pride.  That was typical with all of the lions we saw.  There was prey everywhere, but those lions were spoiled with full bellies.  We were hoping to witness a kill, but it never happened.

In the early afternoon, we stopped at a local Masai village.  Here, the chief’s son gave us a tour of the small community.  They welcomed us with a traditional Masai dance, which David and I both took part in.  We had seen the jumping dance on the Amazing Race, as it was one of the challenges contestants had to participate in.  And as David found out, it is a challenge to jump that high in pencil form.  After the dance, the chief’s son took us into a typical Masai house.  And I use the term “house” very loosely.  It was a tiny hut made of sticks and dung.  Inside, there were two beds made from cow hide and a fire in the corner.  There was no light except the natural light that came through the slits in the home.  While inside, the son told us that the Masai are nomadic shepherds that move with their herds to find food and water.  They eat beef from their cattle and drink milk mixed with fresh blood – no fruits or veggies.  Each man may take multiple wives and each person has an average of 8 brothers and sisters.  What an experience!  You see these things on TV, but until I was actually in one of those homes sitting on the cow-hide bed, did I truly comprehend that yes, even in the 21^st century some people are still living like it's 400 BC.  There's nothing wrong with it, it's just very, very different.

Next, we took a short break at Olduvai Gorge, the cradle of mankind.  This is where hominin footprints from 3.5M years ago were discovered by the famous Leakeys.


We arrived at the Ngorongoro Lodge for a late lunch and a nature hike.  This lodge was more like a hotel so we didn’t need to worry about wild animals approaching.  However, David was still a paranoid parrot and felt like he had to run from our room to the restaurant at night to avoid being eaten.

On the way back from our nature walk, David, Ben, and I were downhill waiting for the rest of the group to catch up when we heard a guttural sound coming from the woods.  Ben immediately said, “THAT’S AN ANIMAL!” and went sprinting ahead to find the source.  He called us over when he saw a huge elephant with tusks just next to the path.  We started filming and as you’ll see, as David was talking he heard us and perked up.  Elephants don’t have the greatest eyesight but they have amazing hearing, which makes sense with those giant ears!  Our guide, Albert, saw him start to flap his ears and move from side to side like he was going to charge us, so he told us to RUN!  It was actually really scary, but that’s also the great thing about Africa – danger and adventure are literally just around the corner!

We had a couple of other scares when:

1) I had to go to the bathroom and the nearest pit latrine was an hour away.  To avoid the dreaded pit, Dynamite suggested I just go behind the truck.  I didn’t think we were allowed out, especially since we had just passed a pride of lions about five minutes down the road.  But Dynamite told me it would be okay and it was, but that was the scariest potty break of my life!  And I’m sure any animals that did come around later were very confused, asking themselves just what kind of animal marked their territory there. 

2) A rock got stuck in the upper right wheel of the jeep.  Dynamite had to remove the tire to get it out, so he asked the guys to help him.  Well, what I thought was a rifle on the back of the car turned out to be just a jack.  That made me a little more nervous than I had been.  And we had to fix the car right in front of a group of mean-looking water buffalo and hyenas.  Mary just happened to turn around as a hyena started to approach the car.  Baz and Mo jumped back inside and stayed there until the hyena became disinterested and moved away, but he watched them the entire time from the tall grass.  So the ladies had to keep a close lookout and sound the alarm if needed.  


For our final game drive on Saturday, Dynamite told us to be ready at 7:30 so we could get an early start to the day.  And what a day it was!

We finally saw some hyenas and jackals, but the best part was the lions! 

We saw our first older male lion with a full dark mane right before lunch.  He was sleeping (what a surprise) so we moved on.  But after lunch, Dynamite, the Lion Whisperer, said he’d like to go back because he had a feeling that lion would be up and his brother might be around.  And of course Dynamite was right.  It was eerie – like he had a sixth sense when it came to the animals.  The lion and his brother were up and headed to a kill.

Further down the road, a group of sunbathing lions we were watching got hot and moved under our vehicle to sleep in the shade.  At first it was great, but it got old after a while when we were ready to move on.

We can honestly say this was the best holiday we've ever been on!  And as much as we travel, that really is saying a lot.  We are hooked now and already thinking about where we’ll head to next in Africa!  If you ever get the chance to go on safari, take it!