Friday, February 24, 2012

Countryside Castles

Usually for Valentine’s Day, David and I are lame and don’t do anything. But this year, we decided to do all kinds of fun things since I’m leaving for Austin soon and we won’t see each other for three weeks.

On February 14th we both left work a bit early and met up in Covent Garden to see Jersey Boys. This was probably a mistake. We were both so exhausted after long days at work that we struggled to stay awake during the show. It was all right, but we were expecting more with all of the rave reviews we’ve heard. Personally, it was overrated. The songs were great, but there is just way too much history in 40 years of the Four Seasons to fit into 2½ hours.

Later in the week, David and I rented a Zipcar and left the city for a weekend in the English countryside.

The streets in England are so narrow. 
Our tiny VW took up this whole road.

As you already know, I’m a big history buff/nerd. I’ve read almost all of Philippa Gregory’s books about the Tudors, and I never missed an episode of the Showtime series. So this weekend, we went to Hever Castle, the Boleyn family home, and Leeds Castle, a favorite of King Henry the VIII’s.

Hever Castle

Getting out of the city on Saturday morning wasn’t as frightening as the last time we rented a car and drove through London, but the traffic was just as bad. Next time, we’ll have to wake up extra early and try to get out while everyone else is still sleeping.

Usually Hever is closed during the winter months, but since it was Spring Break in England, the castle and grounds were open. I didn’t realize how large the grounds were. There was a huge lake and Italian gardens, even a maze and jousting field. During the summer, the estate holds jousting competitions with “knights.”

This hedge has been shaped into a chessboard

The Castle is a small building surrounded by two moats. After the Boleyns were disgraced and Anne’s father died, it passed into the hands of Anne of Cleves, Henry VIII’s fourth wife. Ownership transferred around until the early 1900s when William Waldorf Astor bought it, restored the castle, and created the lakes and gardens.


The lower rooms were all historically preserved, where we could see Anne Boleyn’s room and the guest bed where Henry VIII stayed while visiting, but the upper floors were all dedicated to the Astor family. The Astors are the famously rich family that came to America in the late 1700s and established their fortune. 100 years later, they became the richest people in America. You may remember from the movie that John Jacob Astor was the wealthiest man on the Titanic and went down with the ship. And the family is also famous for owning the luxurious Waldorf-Astoria hotels.

Hidden stairs in the garden

After walking through the home, we wandered the grounds for a while. There were archery classes set up on the lawn next to the castle, so David and I decided to give it a shot (pun intended). I have no upper body strength, so shooting arrows was a lot more difficult that I thought it would be. David was pretty good, though. He was determined to take out the bear in the background, but he didn’t make it. He did get a wild boar and deer for us, though!

Pretending to be Katniss Everdeen
(I definitely would’ve been one of the first to die in the Hunger Games)

David as Legolas

That evening we drove through Kent and stayed at the Black Horse pub. Many countryside pubs also serve as bed and breakfasts. We had never stayed at a pub before, but they’re super-cheap and there’s great food just steps away, so it was nice and convenient. We had a delicious dinner that night and a traditional English breakfast in the morning. After our meal, we drove a few miles down the road to Leeds Castle.

The Black Horse Pub

Dried flowers hung from the ceiling inside the pub/inn

Leeds Castle is said to be the “loveliest castle in England.” The actual building was nice, but it’s the grounds that make this place so pretty. There are over 500 acres of parkland surrounding the castle. It’s so massive that you can take a Segway tour around the grounds or even zip-line through the forest. There is also a large hedge maze with an underground grotto and an aviary full of exotic birds.

Leeds Castle

The last owner, Lady Baillie, was an American heiress that imported black swans from Australia to wander through the numerous ponds and streams. She was the first to introduce the black swan to England, and now the swan is the symbol of Leeds Castle.

We toured the inside, which is also a mixture of old and new, but the best part of Leeds was definitely being outside and wandering around the park.

In front of the Norman ruins of the original castle

Stop looking at me, Swan!

This peacock was strutting his stuff for the ladies

It's snowdrop flower season in England

David and I need to start renting the Zipcar more often to see more of England. This was a great, relaxing weekend in the country before I head back to America for work.