Fall Fun

The weather has turned cooler. The leaves have started to change colors. Pumpkins have been carved. Fall is here!

Back in September, on one of the first cold (well “cold” for our standards as Texans) days of the year, David and I got tickets to a “Royal Day Out.” The day out included a tour of the Royal Mews, the Queen’s Gallery, and Buckingham Palace. Buckingham Palace is only open during the summer months, so we made sure to snatch up these tickets before the palace was closed to visitors.

I had no idea what the Royal Mews were until we showed up that morning for our tour. As I found out, the Mews are home to the carriages, horses, and vehicles that transport the royal family. The biggest attractions at the Mews are the working horses, the carriage that carried Princess Di to St. Paul’s on her wedding day, and the enormous Gold State Coach, which was last used in 2002 for the Queen’s Jubilee. The next Jubilee is expected in 2012 during the Olympics, so this carriage will stay locked away for another two years. In fact, the carriage is so large that the room it is housed in basically has to be taken apart to get the carriage out into the street.

After the Royal Mews, we visited the Queen’s Gallery. The current exhibition at the Gallery is “Victoria and Albert: Art and Love.” I recently saw “The Young Victoria” and LOVED it so I was excited to see some of Victoria and Albert’s prized possessions in-person.

Finally, we ended our day at Buckingham Palace, where we saw the state rooms filled with artwork and sculptures. We walked through Buckingham Palace’s gardens on the way out. I didn’t realize that there is so much green, open space hidden away in the middle of the city. David and I were fortunate to be able to tour the palace, since it is closed for the majority of the year.

On October 17, London Chocolate Week concluded. Throughout the week, different chocolate festivities took place. For example, restaurants around the city featured special chocolate menus, the world’s largest truffle was produced and then broken up into small, bite-size pieces to be sold for charity, and Divine chocolate bars created a signature chocolate cocktail for area restaurant and hotel bars.

On the last day of chocolate week, David, Karen, Jeff, and I decided to have lunch at Borough Market, a huge outdoor food market near London Bridge, and then head down the street to the wrap-up of chocolate week at the Vinopolis convention center. Bad planning on my part led to no lunch because Borough market is closed on Sundays. So we ate lots and lots of chocolate for lunch instead!

As you entered Vinopolis, you paid an admission fee and were asked to sign your name on the wall of chocolate. Just as the name described, this was literally a huge wall made out of chocolate. The pens were simply pointy plastic knives. We all signed our names, and then proceeded into a corridor displaying the history of chocolate.

Then came the good stuff!

The chocolate hall was filled with different vendors from around London giving out samples of their brownies, crepes, bars, spreads, and truffles. Our favorites were the brownies, chocolate crepes with peanut butter spread, truffles filled with sea salt caramel, and a make-your-own chocolate bar. This company was really cool! You go online to the company’s website, select which kind of chocolate bar you want (white, dark, milk, or a combination), and then for a few pence, you start to add ingredients to the bar. I made a dark/milk chocolate bar with sugared lilac and rose petals. David chose gummy bears, and Jeff chose pretzels. The company will inscribe your name at the top of the bar, and then ship the bars to anywhere in the UK or US. Coolest company EVER!

At the back of the room was a separate area displaying chocolate sculptures:

Chocolate Shoes

Chocolate Train with tracks made out of Twix, gravel made from Raisenets, and boulders made out of crumbled chocolate-chip cookies

King Kong Chocolate Cake

Eventually we all started feeling a little ill. We weren’t hungry, but we felt like we all needed some savory MEAT so we headed to Chipotle, Jeff’s favorite new restaurant in London.

Last week, I was in Slovakia again for work. In the fall in Eastern Europe, it is tradition for groups of people to get together and eat goose. So Tuesday night the entire European audit team drove to a small village outside Bratislava to a restaurant known for serving the best goose in that area of Slovakia. And probably also known for having the most dead creatures nailed to its walls.

I didn’t ask for a special meal because I was willing to try the goose. I was not willing to eat the foie gras, though. The meal started with pickles, pickled peppers, saukeraut, and rye bread. Then came the foie gras. Giant goose liver? No thanks. Then the main course was brought out. For our group, we ordered three geese. These came with red cabbage and potato pancakes, which looked more like thin tortillas. I was tempted to make a goose taco, but I resisted.

The goose was really delicious. It tasted like the dark meat of a turkey. For dessert, we each had different strudels. There was a poppy seed cherry strudel, cheese and cherry strudel, and walnut strudel. I chose the cheese and cherry strudel. It was a really fun night out with the team and I was glad to try a new tradition.

I’m typing this blog now as trick-or-treater after trick-or-treater is ringing our bell for candy. Who knew there were so many kids in England that celebrated Halloween? When David lived here, his family basically stopped celebrating Halloween. He never got the chance to trick-or-treat again after he turned 11. It must be different in our neighborhood or the British are catching onto this great holiday because we are quickly running out of candy. I’ve had to resort to giving away my precious Mozart balls (nooooo!!!!) and David has made a mad dash down to the corner store for more sweets! We love passing out candy to all the cute kids in their lil costumes (and they're extra adorable this year with their accents) and David loves terrorizing them in his big bad wolf costume! As one less-than-scared kid put it, "Wow!  You proper dressed up!" 

Happy Halloween everyone!

Vienna

This week I needed to be in Bratislava for work and since I fly into Vienna and then take a taxi across the Austria/Slovakia border, I asked David if he could take a day off and come to Vienna early with me. Since he hadn’t taken any vacation days since we moved in July, that was an easy “yes!"

What wasn’t so easy was waking up at 3 AM on Friday morning to catch our 6 AM flight to Vienna. We kept telling ourselves we’d have the whole day in the city if we got there early, but it was so difficult to get out of bed and finish packing in the middle of the night. I slept the entire flight, but David was wired after his coffee and read the paper. We landed at 9 AM, ready to tour the town!

Vienna was beautiful, despite the cloudy, cold weather. Every building is stunning and the city is filled with so much history. We didn’t know a lot about the Austrian Empire before our trip, which meant we learned a ton! These are our top five highlights:

1) During the Roman Empire, Vienna was one of the centers of Germania known as Vindobona. For those movie buffs out there who love "Gladiator" as much as David and me, you’ll remember that the beginning of the movie features a battle in Vindobona against the Barbarians (aka Germans). So Vienna is where that battle took place, and shortly after, where Emperor Marcus Aurelius died (in the movie and in real life). While touring the city on Friday afternoon, we stumbled across the Roman ruins in Michaelerplatz.

It’s amazing that there are cities beneath cities around the world like this. How do major buildings get buried? The windows of the ruins are now filled with dirt beneath the street. It’s hard to imagine that a couple thousand years ago those windows faced open sky. Looking around us in Vienna, I couldn’t comprehend how the grand opera houses or palaces might one day be excavated hundreds of feet below where we stood. I don’t get it…

2) The delicious Sacher torte was invented at the Hotel Sacher in Vienna across from the State Opera House. After we landed on Friday morning and dropped our bags at the hotel, we headed to Café Frauenhuber for a traditional Austrian breakfast of rolls with different spreads and hot chocolate! This café is famous for being the oldest café in town and can also boast that both Mozart and Beethoven performed here. After our meal, we walked around the city for a few hours, and decided to skip lunch and opt for some sweets instead! Hotel Sacher, I have to admit, is a tourist trap (and infamous as being known as a discreet hotel for adulterers), but it’s worth it to taste the torte!

3) There is actually a patron saint of the plague, Saint Charles Borromeo. During the plague epidemic in 1713, Emperor Karl VI vowed to build a church dedicated to St. Borromeo once the city was healed. Karlskirche is the result of this promise. It is the tallest Baroque church in Vienna at 236 feet. We visited the church on Saturday morning after deciding to skip Vienna’s flea market and sleep in. Visitors have the option to view the artwork of the dome close-up by taking a terrifying elevator ride to the top, and then finish walking the last few feet up an even scarier scaffold to see the painted dove directly underneath the dome. Well of course we had to do this! I didn’t think it would be that frightening, but the scaffold was so rickety! My legs must have been tensed the entire way up to the dome because they were sore days later! I learned to appreciate the work of the artists hundreds of years ago so much more standing directly beneath the dome and watching other church-goers over 200 feet below me. They really couldn’t be afraid of heights at all to have such a steady hand to paint those beautiful images.

Karlskirche

4) Cocaine injections were commonly used as painkillers and antidepressants for women going through menopause or PMS a hundred years ago. On Sunday afternoon, David and I toured the old royal apartments.

Michaelertor, home to the royal apartments and Spanish Riding School

The first floor exhibit featured all of the royal china and silver. The first few rooms were interesting, but there was so much china that after about 20 minutes, David and I gave up listening to the audio guide and practically jogged through the remaining exhibit. Seriously, how much china does the royal family need? There seemed to be a different set for each day of the year. The second floor of the apartments was called the Sisi Museum. We had no idea what that meant, but when we walked inside, our audio guide explained that this tour would explore Empress Elisabeth’s fascinating life and all of the rumors surrounding her. Sisi was Elisabeth’s nickname, hence the name of the museum. She was promised to Emperor Josef when she was 16, married and had her first child by the age of 18. Obsessed with her appearance, her ankle-length hair took 3 hours to do every day. She was 5’8 and only weighed about 95 pounds because she regularly fasted or drank meat juice. She wasn’t content with her life in the Austrian court and travelled abroad often. In one of her medicinal travel kits, there was a syringe her doctors used to inject her with cocaine. Empress Elisabeth became more and more depressed the older she got. Her son, the Crown Prince Rudolph committed suicide at his hunting lodge after he murdered his 17 year-old mistress. After that, she fell into a deeper depression and was eventually assassinated during one her visits to Switzerland.

5) Mozart was a freemason. On Sunday evening, David headed to the central train station to catch the “CAT” out to the airport. I walked with him so he wouldn’t get lost, as David is known for easily getting lost in both familiar and unknown cities. After our goodbyes, I walked back through Stadtpark, but then it started to drizzle and I had left my umbrella in the hotel room, so I hurried through the city centre to Mozart’s house. The house was fairly empty. In fact, the only other tourist inside was a fellow Texan wearing a Longhorn sweater. I was too depressed about Saturday’s game to say anything, plus we both had our audio guide headsets on, so I wasn’t even sure he’d hear me talking to him. It’s funny that on a random Sunday evening in Vienna, I can meet a fellow UT alumnus in Mozart’s house. It is a small world after all. I had toured Mozart’s Salzburg house with my family about 10 years ago on our big European vacation. This was very similar, except the apartment was much nicer. Mozart was a struggling artist in Salzburg and hit the big-time in Vienna. One of the things I either didn’t remember from my Mozart Salzburg tour, or learned on Sunday, was that Mozart was a freemason. As part of the exhibit, his admission certificate into a Masonic lodge was on display, as was an attendance form with his signature. I always associate the Masons with the US founding fathers and myths straight out of "National Treasure" or The Lost Symbol. But I guess this secret society has a lot more famous international members than I thought!

Mozart's Home

Here are some more highlights:

We had dinner at Figlmuller on Friday night.  This restaurant is known for its HUGE Wiener Schnitzels.  Even though David was hungry, we split this one!

St. Stephansdom is in the heart of Vienna.  It was almost destroyed during WWII but has been restored.  Its soaring spires are currently under construction.

On Sunday afternoon, David and I were lucky enough to score tickets to the Spanish Riding School.  Cameras are restricted during the performance because it distracts the horses, but this is the Winter Riding Hall where the entertainment took place.

The State Opera House

Hook 'Em Horns!

American football season has started.

How long do you think it would take to get ESPN America as part of our cable package? Keep in mind it took about 6 weeks to get our internet and cable set up in the first place, about 2 months for me to get a debit card (even though David and I have had a UK joint bank account since April), and we still don’t have cell phone plans. So naturally, with everything else taking forever here, I thought a change to our cable package would take at least a week or two.

I was wrong.

Before the first NFL game of the season a few weeks ago, David called Sky Cable to inquire about the ESPN sports package. And whatdayaknow? They were able to instantly grant him access to those channels and I couldn’t even argue the cost because it’s free for the first 3 months and only 8 pounds per month after that. Great!

So David set his alarm for 2 AM that night to wake up and watch the Saints/Vikings game. Fortunately he was really sleepy when he set his alarm and set it wrong. So he didn’t wake up. But he did record it correctly and rushed home from work that evening to watch the game. On Saturday, after a lovely theatre evening out with his sister and wife, David rushed home again to catch some college football. I think he came to bed that night around 3 AM. And the other night (or should I say morning) I woke up at 5 AM and noticed David wasn’t in bed next to me. Where did I find him? Asleep on the couch with ESPN on the TV. He swears he fell asleep around 1:00…

Football isn’t all bad though. I had never watched a football game in my life before I moved to Austin and became a Texas Longhorn. Since then I’ve watched almost every Longhorn game, either in-person or on TV, for the past 7 years. With football season approaching, David signed us up for the Texas Exes United Kingdom chapter hoping there would be game-watching parties. And there are!

UT alumni living in London get together every weekend at Bodeans, a BBQ joint in the city. We usually either watch the games live on Saturday night (like this weekend’s Nebraska game) or we watch on Sundays if the time difference is too great. We have all sworn an oath that we will not watch the game ahead of time and do everything in our power NOT to learn the score. That means we are usually phone/internet/ESPN-free Saturday nights through Sunday afternoons.

The first weekend we headed into the city, we had to admit we felt a little ridiculous wearing our burnt orange jerseys on the Tube, but we’re used to the strange stares now. It’s definitely better, though, to meet up with others and head to Bodeans together. Then people seem to understand you’re part of a group going to an event instead of one of those couples that like to wear matching outfits.

Enjoying some good old fashioned American beer (and root beer for me) at the Texas-Texas Tech game.  Karen just HAD to wear her red Tech jersey, but it didn't bring the Raiders very much luck!

Even though the Longhorns have been sucking it up lately, we still like going to the games to socialize with other Americans and eat some decent BBQ. Hook ‘em horns!